Saturday, 18 February 2012

Marc by Marc Jacobs - Fall 2012

As the lights went down at the Marc by Marc Jacobs fall 2012 runway show last week and people ran to get into their seats, a booming voice came over the loudspeakers and proclaimed, “This is what you want…this is what you get.” This lyric – the great anthem of capitalism – written by the rock band Public Image Ltd. in 1984 for their song, “The Order of Death,” was the perfect backdrop for a collection that is entirely meant for purchase. Marc Jacobs’ premier line, which had its show the day before, is a much grander production that allows for experimentation and fantasy. The show this fall for example, featured multicolored mink pimp hats, bedazzled pilgrim shoes and silhouettes that were reminiscent of 18th century France – a far cry from the refined straightforwardness of his diffusion line.

The models that walked down the Marc by Marc runway this season zoomed by in their combat boots and military-style caps, unencumbered by the usual mile-high stilettos.  Their hair was tied back in a slick, straight ponytail, which was complimented with a simple red lip. Some of the models wore thick-framed black glasses, adding to the hipster/grunge “school-girl” look. As a college girl myself, I could imagine going to class in all of these looks – collared shirt buttoned the whole way up, wool socks peaking out from my loafers and a tweed blazer to really give the outfit a collegiate feel. Beyond the dark tones of brown, black and grey, the collection also featured bright pops of blue and red along with some flashes of metallic. One of my favorite looks was the metallic gold trench worn over a baby-doll dress with metallic polka dots. The two pieces perfectly complimented each other; rough textures juxtaposed with soft, doll-like silhouettes and prints. Another one of my favorite looks was a deep blue, full velvet lamé skirt paired with a peplum top. Both pieces featured burnout detailing that moved beautifully with the garment and caught the light in a mysterious way. Jacobs’ love of separates was very apparent – an ingenious business move that practically doubles the number of items able to be sold.
Even from my spot standing way in the back row, my eye was able to catch all of the minute and flashy details that elevated this collection from simple to simply elegant. Everything about the show reflected this notion. The lights went down at exactly 4:00, the models walked, Jacobs came out and gave a modest bow (in his not-so-modest pilgrim shoes), and the audience went quickly and quietly on to their next show. Being the end of fashion week, there was a palpable sense of fatigue in the room. This collection seemed to be exactly what everyone needed though – a job done right. No fuss, no muss, just a beautiful collection that’s going to put money in everyone’s pockets. This was my first “real” fashion show though so I, unlike the rest of the show-goers, was bubbly with excitement. To me, this show could have been the big Marc Jacobs one because the entire experience felt like a fantasy. On my way out of the Armory where the show was held I overheard one editor say to another, “So, what’s next?”
The woman replied, “Do you want me to lie to you or tell you the truth?"
In my head I thought,  “Lie. Lie! Keep me in this fantasy forever!”  

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